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Angkor Wat, Cambodia
Today was another much anticipated day by the group. Today was our visit to the nearby ancient ruins of Angkor, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
–The day in Angkor–
The day started with great fortune. Our head tuk tuk driver for the day works at Jasmine Lodge and was an ex-Angkor tour guide. So we were in good hands when being shown around today. We headed down to Angkor first thing in the morning. It costs $20 to enter on a one day pass. A three day pass is also available if you’re keen to make Angkor the pinnacle of your visit here.
Just as a bit of background, Angkor is an ancient civilization home to the Khmer empire running from around the 9th to 15th century. Angkor served as the capital to the empire (moved from Roulos), with large temples erected all over the then capital in honor of the Kings during the empire until its demise by Thai invaders. The capital was subsequently moved to today’s site, Phnom Penh (the actual reason for the move is still of hot debate even to this day).
Today the city is truly a ruin. As you walk around, you see stones of the temples scattered all over the city. Although there is some really good restoration work going on, the ruin aspect gives the city its age and makes you think of what these magnificent buildings were like in their full glory.
–The tour–
We started our day at the South Gate of Angkor Thom, the largest Khmer site. Angkor Thom is a large fortified complex hosting many temples. This gate is the natural entry point if you come from Siem Reap. The tall gate is very imposing and impressive, with four heads carved into the top. You get to the gate via a bridge lined with god (left) and demon (right) sculptures lining the structure over the moat.
We made our way to Bayon, a temple constructed late in the empire (12-13th century). The temple is a collection of tall towers with faces carved into the sides of each one. As you walk around, you always feel as if you’re watched. The faces are all smiling, giving the temple a jovial atmosphere. There were 54 towers in all, apparently one for each significant city in the empire. The two galleries that run around the temple are equally as impressive, with really intricate social and religious depictions carved into the stone. This temple really dominates its surroundings and is a masterpiece to admire. On reflection, this was my most favourite temple. The design is so astonishing, unique and complex. You just can’t get you head around how you would construct something as magnificent as this. We spent quite some time here in complete admiration.
We moved on to Bapuon, an earlier temple of the 11th century also based in the walls of Angkor Thom. On the way, you pass by a large seated Buddha built from sandstone (Tep Pranam). This temple is like a small mountain with a lovely bridge running down one side. Other than that, there is not too much to see here and some parts of the ruin are in real disrepair (the debris is scattered all around the site).
Our next stop was Phimeanakas, a temple which is the focal point in the Royal Palace complex used from the 11th century. This is also enclosed in Angkor Thom’s boundary. This is a magnificent palace like temple build upon a 3-tier pyramid. The temple is in a good condition and you can climb up the step stairs on either 4 sides to the top to the holy shrine in the middle.
We then made our way to the Terrace of the Elephants and Terrace of the Leper King. The elephant terrace is an impressive 300m long structure from the 13th century with intricate depictions of elephant scenes and mythical creatures carved into the wall. You can climb on top of the wall via the symmetrically placed stairs to see the elephant monuments on top. These are some of the most impressive carvings in Angkor, especially the elephants which come out of the stone. The leper king terrace is much smaller in size but just as impressive in its decoration. Also from the 13th century, it is covered in decorations of religious figures (e.g. naga) and of mythical creatures. On top of the square terrace is the statue of the ‘Leper King’, by which there are josh sticks which you can light and make a wish (on that note, you see Buddha shrines in the chambers of almost all temples, where you can do the same).
We then made our way out of Angkor Thom through the Victory gate to Spean Thma. This is a ruined bridge on the side of the road. It’s particularly striking as the ruin is so eroded it has large trees nested on top with the roots working around the ruin. The authorities haven’t gone for full on restoration, but are allowing the ruins to sit alongside the natural environment, as if the one magnificent city is being reclaimed by the land.
We then headed East, over Siem Reap River, to the temple of Ta Keo. This was another favourite temple of mine. A relatively early build (10th century), this is a giant mountain temple with 5 tall towers erected on top. Again, you can climb the steep steeps to the top and explore the chambers in the towers above. The central chamber has a Buddha statue but unfortunately the other towers have had their original stone statues stolen (this is sadly a reality that statues are still being taken). You clearly notice that the temple was incomplete due to the clack of carvings and inscriptions, which are prevalent in the other temples.
Around the corner was Ta Phrom, built in the 12th-13th centuries. This is another impressive temple, which sits more elegantly in its surroundings. The temple is intertwined with trees, plants and wildlife. The temple is not a tall construct like many of the others, but more a large complex of chambers, galleries and walkways. This temple served as a monastery and teaching centre. Today, many parts of it are collapsed and it’s an interesting complex to explore with many hidden chambers and courtyards. Of all the temples, this temple has the most astonishing carvings. Each wall is as intricately sculpted as the next. It’s no wonder this was the site of the Tomb Raider film.
We then made our way to the best known of temples, Angkor Wat. As you approach it, you are just taken back by the shear size of it! It’s a wonderful symmetrical palace covered in detailed carvings and inscriptions. Although the largest of all the temples (in fact the largest religious site in the world), for me I prefer Baron & Ta Phrom due to their unique and more complex structures. Unfortunately, we only spent 30 minutes here. It’s not too much of an issue for me, I will be staying in Siem Reap for 1 month and I will be back for sure to get a much better look.
Our final stop was Phnom Bakheng. This temple ruin is located on top of a hill (Phnom- Khmer for hill). You can get a elephant ride up for $20, but its a nice walk to the top. The temple is of real significance as it was the first state temple of the capital of Angkor (9th Century). From here you get a wonderful hill top view of the sunset over the ancient city. Being so high up, you get an unhindered view of the horizon with the temples and lakes in view.
–Final thoughts on Angkor–
These temples are an astonishing and breath-taking achievement and you are just in awe of the intricate detail and uniqueness of each one. It’s just so hard to comprehend how such structures were ever devised and constructed.
The trip is also charts a journey. Each temple is unique and put a mark on the society at that time. The temples together allow you to understand how this civilization evolved through its architecture, building methods and religious and cultural references on the temple’s walls. It’s especially interesting to see the battle of Buddhism vs Hinduism during the empire, with the statues of religious figures cut off in some temples as one form was more accepted at a given time.
There is no doubt that I’ll be back another day during my stay in Siem Reap to again take in the beauty of this once prominent city.
–The last supper–
In the evening, we hit the central streets of Siem Reap one last time. Tomorrow morning, the conservation team will be leaving us for Phnom Pehn, on their journey to the forest. We went to “Happy Herb Pizza”- the final indulgence for the forest team (note that this particular chain in Cambodia does not put “Happy Herbs” on their Pizzas, but they do exist!). In short, the pizzas and burger are good, but don’t venture outside of their specialty! Ig got scrambled aggs and spaghetti as my carbonara.
Given the team were leaving early tomorrow and a full day walking around Angkor, we all called it an early night.
–Moments of the day–
1. When I realised I was the worst haggler in the world- A woman is selling Ancient Angkor guides for $8, from which I unsuccessfully negotiate down. I give her $10 and she claims only to have $1 change. Only can I haggle up the price of something. Later on in the day, a host of traders are selling the guide for $1! That’s extremely poor and an area I need to improve in if I’m going to live here!
2. Henry’s moment of realisation- “If I win x-factor, I want my music video to be shot here” [arms aloft and breaking into song on top of Phnom Bakheng, with other visitors not sure what to make of him].
from: http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/saundh/1/1264096807/tpod.html
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